A reminder that you and I can both get 20% off our next order at Front Panel Express by entering the code "M4VZCMD7" until June 30th.
Saturday, 30 April 2011
Friday, 29 April 2011
Having set a path forward with the headphone side of my audio setup, I thought it appropriate time to look back at the stereo setup. I am quite satisfied at the current crop of speakers sitting in boxes, ready to be mounted onto cabinets. With a move to a home with a more fitting stereo room, I think it would make an ideal start in comparison of the speakers.
In this same vein, I have started to review the amps. I have a range of 1W and 8W tube amps ready to be assembled and tested. At the moment, most of my speaker drivers are in the 95 db+ range, and can be considered efficient, with the exception of the Jordan JX92s.
Reading through the various articles about amplifiers in the voltage and current domains, my conclusion (which is very similar to many others) is that tubes are excellent voltage gain devices. They work primarily in the voltage domain. To get them to power speakers, one has to convert some of the voltage into current, hence step down transformers. The output transformer takes, typically, hundreds of volts and milliamps, and transforms that into tens of volts and potentially tens of amps. This is then able to drive a speaker.
Though I have not much been interested in MOSFETS or transistors for amplifying devices, there seems to be a movement towards using them where their strength lies, in the high current domain. In a sense, they operating in tens of volts and tens of amps (or thereabouts). Most popular power amps are of the transistor type, and are able to produce hundreds of watts of power.
The debate between what is better; tubes or transistors, I think will never be concluded, as it is a function of taste. Each to their own. So far, I have experienced primarily tubes, and I like them not only for their sound, but their nostalgia and appearance. For me, a glowing red tube is so much more attractive than a massive heat sink. The fundamental problem, taking aside taste, is one of power. Tubes cannot really go above 100W, and if we limit ourselves to the single ended affair, probably not above 30W, sensibly.
I think what I, and other SET fanatics crave is more power. The only way to achieve that is to operate the tubes at an ever higher voltage and current. I have not found tubes that really work well in 16W plus in SE operation that operates at less than 800V. The 6C33 is close, but operates at a very high current of around 400 mA. The high current represents its own problem in transformers and chokes.
Fundamentally, what I have come to understand is nothing new, or earth shattering. However, it was important that one reach that conclusion in one's own time and way. My tastes at the moment favour; Single tube SE or one tube pair PP, both in Class A. Further, my goal would be 32 Wrms of clean power, irrespective of speaker efficiency.
Now that I am at this point, I find that I have two paths to move forward with. First path is with a high voltage SET, like the GM70, 211, 845 or similar transmitter tube. The other, a hybrid solution mating a tube front end with a transistor output stage.
Since I have ruled out high voltages, that only leaves the second path, one of a hybrid approach. Having only casually explored the hybrid path, I have come across the Moskido design, which is a hybrid of the Aikido design with a MOSFET output stage. The other design is one of a booster amplifier, after a tube output amp. Having further researched this idea, I came across two interesting solutions; DIY Hifi Supply Fusion module and the Pass Labs F4 impedance converting amplifier.
The Fusion module seems to be very easy to implement, with the addition of a low voltage power supply and the insertion of the module. It looks like a current amplifier that is probably in parallel with the speaker. It probably includes some kind of Class D chipamp operating as a current amplifier.
The F4 is more interesting. Now only has it got some really good reviews, it is a similar approach as with Andrea Ciuffoli in his "100W Hi End Hybrid" design. Any which way, they are both interesting approaches and designs. The F4 has a cult following in the DIY Audio community, and there are PCB boards available as well as volumes of forum postings about this. For me, that makes it a safer design, as it can be supported by a range of people who have built it.
Having come to this conclusion, I ordered 2 sets of the PCB boards from the DIY Audio Forum store. Also ordered the matching number of sets of the active devices from Tech DIY. I hope to start the build soon, and share what I have research and progress to date.
Thursday, 28 April 2011
Wednesday, 27 April 2011
Very excited, the final missing resistors for the TU882R build arrived this morning. Hopefully time for the build later today, and maybe finish by the weekend!
Saturday, 16 April 2011
|The main board, without the missing 4 resistors, tube|
sockets and the wiring.
During the build, as per normal, I realised that I ordered the replacement resistors four less then what was needed. I was short 220k and the 3k3. So, immediately placed another order for these missing four resistors, but continued to build.
|Close up of the signal part of the PCB. Note the|
Mundorf caps and the Tantalum resistors
|Close up of the main PCB signal section, note that both|
the Mundord caps and the Tantalum resistors stand off
the PCB by a bit, as they were larger than what was supplied
Have a look at the photos below of the progress. The instructions was simple to follow and straight forward. The PCB has good room, and the solder pads weren't too small. Everything fit and as you can see, I am just waiting on the replacement resistors before I do the assembly, wiring and chassis part of the kit.
|The front panel sockets PCB.|
|Front Panbel sockets PCB showing the header pins.|
|The replacement Noble pot. This will be direct wired from|
the pot to the PCB, not requiring PCB 'B'.
|The PSU/Transformer PCB.|
Thursday, 14 April 2011
DC Resistance (Re) of the HF Unit = 10.05 R
|Impedance vs Frequency|
|Lvc vs Frequency|
Friday, 8 April 2011
This particular order included most of the upgrade parts for the Elekit, which included the 3k3 Tantalum resistors. For whatever reason, after I selected this correctly in the online shopping cart, they did not transpose that correct to their invoice. Instead, they put in 4k3. And with them, they send you the invoice to confirm first before they take payment and ship. I opted for the UPS option, which for a bunch of resistors and a pot, cost around US$60. Well, the time between when they sent me the invoice, and the shipping confirmation, was around one hour, and it occurred in Australia time, around 4am in the morning. Not much time for someone to respond.
So, to my surprise when I opened the package, I did not find my 3k3, but instead found the 4k3. I emailed them immediately, along with the web invoice email confirmation that I got first. They were very quick and nice to respond. Long story short, after a few emails, they were happy to send me the replacement resistors, but only after I have sent them back and they received it. Also, they were silent on the shipping method they would use.
To me, that is where they lost me. Firstly, it was their mistake, and secondly, why should I send back something before I got what I paid for? Well, I have encountered this scenario with a few other suppliers mentioned above, and in ALL instances, they were willingly to ship the correct goods first. Not after.
Well, that is my rant for the week. Take from it what you will. I am not warning anyone to stay away from Partsconnexion, but just sharing my experience. They do have an excellent range of components and are very well priced. But what about the service?